Dog Logic Obedience Articles

If you watch a litter of puppies playing, you will notice that they spend much of their time biting and grabbing each other with their mouths. This is normal puppy behavior. When you take a puppy from the litter and into your home, the puppy will play bite and mouth you. This is normal behavior, but needs to be modified so you and the puppy will be happy.

The first thing to teach your new puppy is that human flesh is much more sensitive than other puppies and that it really hurts us when they bite. This is called bite inhibition. A puppy has very sharp teeth and a weak jaw. This means that the puppy can cause you to be uncomfortable when mouthing or puppy biting you, but can not cause severe damage. An adult dog has duller teeth and a powerful jaw. This means that an adult dog can cause significant damage when biting.

ANY DOG WILL BITE GIVEN THE RIGHT OR WRONG CIRCUMSTANCES ! If a small child falls on your adult dog and sticks a finger in the dog's eye, you should not be surprised if the dog bites. If you do a good job teaching your puppy bite inhibition, you should get a grab and release without damage. If you don't, you may get a hard bite with significant damage.

It is simple to teach a puppy bite inhibition. Every time the puppy touches you with its teeth, say "OUCH!" in a harsh tone of voice. This will probably not stop the puppy from mouthing, but over time should result in softer and gentler puppy biting.

The commands necessary to teach a puppy NOT to mouth, are easy and fun. Hold a small handful of the puppy's dry food, say "take it" in a sweet tone of voice, and give the puppy one piece of food. Then close the rest of the food in your hand and say "off" in that same sweet tone of voice. When the puppy has not touched your hand for 3 to 5 seconds, say "take it" and give the puppy one piece of food.
We are teaching the puppy that "off" means not to touch. You should do this with the puppy before every meal for at least 5 minutes.

After a couple of weeks of the above training, here is how you are going to handle puppy biting or mouthing:

a. Unexpected mouthing (you don't know the puppy is going to mouth, until you feel the puppy's teeth):

c. The puppy is mouthing you because of a desire to play. You have to answer the question, "Do I have time to play with t,,he puppy now ?" If you do, then do "sit", "down", "stand" or other positive 'lure and reward' training.

If the answer is "No, I don't have time for the puppy, right now," then you need to do a time out (crate, or otherwise confine the puppy, so the puppy can't continue to mouth you and get in trouble.

I believe you will find the above much more humane than yelling at the puppy all of the time.

The above training methods have been modified from information that I learned from Dr. Ian Dunbar in his puppy training seminars and from his excellent video 'Sirius Puppy Training' which is available by calling 510-658-8588. Joel Walton, BSc

Dogs jump up to greet people because they want to make eye contact and physical contact. They are not interested in looking at your ankles or knees (smile).

Most dogs have been positively reinforced for jumping up, because it is hard not to pet and talk to a little puppy when they run up with their tail wagging, thrilled to see you, and put their little paws on your ankles. Their only sin is getting bigger and putting their paws on higher body parts.

We are dealing with normal greeting behavior by dogs that like and love the people they are greeting. It would be wrong to punish this behavior. It would also be wrong to prevent the dog from greeting visitors.

Teach the puppy/dog to sit using its food as a lure and reward.
Make sure that you practice the sit command in any area you expect the dog to sit to greet people.
Have the dog confined while you invite the visitor in and get them in a comfortable chair.
Lead the dog, who is on a buckle collar with a leash attached, up to the visitor. Make sure you hold the collar or lead to prevent the dog from jumping up.
Give the dog the 'sit' command and hand signal. Have the visitor wait until the dog sits, before gently stroking the dog from head to shoulder while they talk to the dog in a sweet gentle voice for at least one minute. You make sure that the dog does not jump up during this procedure by holding the dog's collar. Your visitor may be leaning over the dog and a broken nose or glasses may result if you don't do a good job!
If the dog does not sit right away, just make sure that nothing happens until the dog sits. The first time you do this, be prepared to wait. As soon as the dog sits and gets the visitors attention as a reward, walk the dog away from the visitor, return and repeat the procedure. The dog is going to be very excited the first time they greet the visitor. The fifth time in a row you walk the dog up to the visitor, the dog is thinking "Gee, it is still Joel." It will be much easier to get the dog to sit with each additional greeting.

Walton Family Dog Training http://www.pages.prodigy.com/MD/wfdt/wfdt.html
AB-L owner, Pettable-L owner, APDT-L manager
DC/MD/VA 301-855-0355
(May be reproduced in its entirety for non-commercial purposes only.)
back to index

For most dog owners the following three things are the most important for the dog to learn:
1. Housebreaking,
2. Coming when called and
3. Walking on a leash without pulling.
Everything else varies from owner to owner.

The following are the most important things to remember when you start out to "Civilize Your Dog":

These two statements will help you train the dog for the rest of his life. Remember that rewards are not what YOU consider a reward, but rather, what the DOG considers a reward. For example: if your dog runs out the front door, he is being REWARDED with freedom. When you call him and he comes and you put him back in the house he is being PENALIZED for coming to you by being put back in the house. For training purposes a Reward can be verbal praise, petting, food, a ball or whatever motivates your dog. YOU know your own dog -- you know if he would sell his soul for food or for a tennis ball. Make his Reward whatever turns him on, and the time spent finding out what really turns him on will be well worth the effort.

Please notice that I said "Penalize" and not punish. Punishment makes people think of hitting the dog -- which is rarely necessary. The only reason to hit a dog is for anti-so-cial behavior. "Anti-social" is not only biting. A puppy that growls when you go near his bone is threatening you -- definitely anti-social behavior. If not stopped it will probably become a bite.

A "Penalty" can be anything that the dog does not like. It may be a leash jerk, not moving when he's a on leash so there's no walk, or just ignoring him.

If you think that your dog can't or won't learn, think about the things that he has already learned. If you dog has been with you for a few weeks the chances are that he has learned when food is going to be available -- the sounds of the can opener or the opening of the closet door where his food is kept, or even, if he is fed from the table, to beg at dinner time. He has learned that a leash means a walk, that if the front door is left open a crack he can dash out and run for a few hours, and that when he is left alone he can destroy things in the house because he has never been caught in the act.

One of the most important things for you to learn is that it IS possible to teach the dog what you want him to learn. The dog is always learning. You have to learn how to reward the dog so that it is in his best interests to do what you want him to do.

If your dog is destructive when left alone, it is because he has not been caught in the act of doing wrong. See the chapter on crates.

If your dog dashes out the front door, it is because he has been given the opportunity to escape and then is being rewarded by the freedom to roam the neighborhood. If this is your problem, put a ten foot rope on the dog and let him drag it around the house. (called a house line) Just before you open the door step on the rope, or, for a big dog, leave a loop in the end and loop it over the inside door handle. When the dog dashes out the front door you have a handle with which to jerk him back in. After a few times or a few dozen times (depending on the dog) he will catch on that it is painful to dash out the door and he will stop. Congratulations!! You have just taught your dog a lesson that *may* save his life, and *wil*l save your hours of chasing.

As long as he is dragging this rope around the house, if you have a problem with him jumping on people you can solve that too. All you have to do is to step on the rope where it hits the floor. If he jumps up, the rope tightens, giving him an automatic correction. If he doesn't jump up, nothing happens.

Every dog must have two collars: one should be a buckle collar with his tags on it and the other is the training collar (a chain choke ). NEVER tie a dog up with his training collar and never leave the training collar on the dog when he is alone as it may catch on something.

Every dog should have two names. One for talking TO him and one for talking ABOUT him. If you use his name when you are talking about him you will desensitize him to the use of his name. Every time you say his name make it a happy occasion for him. Use his name when you feed him. If you want to give him a snack, instead of saying "snack" say his name. Every time I say my dog's name she thinks that I am saying "snack" and she comes running. Much better than yelling "snack" or "cookie" whenever I want her to come. Much more dignified!!

Most people have a life, aside from training the dog, so that I'm not going to tell you to train the dog for one hour a day. Also, if you have a very young puppy one hour will be much too much for him. Five or ten minutes at a time, two or three times a day will be far better to get the training into the dog's mind.

While your dog is eating, add food to his dish. That is, while he is eating his dog food, add a small piece of meat or a special "goody" to his food. This will convince the dog that whenever someone goes near his dish it is only to make it better. The old way to get a dog to be less possessive about his food was to remove the dish while he was eating and then replace it. This, unfortunately, sometimes led to dogs eating faster and faster because they were afraid that someone would steal their food. Add this goody to his food every day for about one month, then once or twice a week for about one a month. After that, add a goody about once a month, to keep the dog used to the idea of someone bothering him while he is eating. At the same time, it is very important that the dog NOT be bothered while he is eating. What we have been talking about here is training. If this is done the dog will not object to being bothered now and then, although the fair thing to do is NEVER to bother the dog. The purpose of this training is that, although the owner should see to it that nobody bothers the dog while he is eating, things can happen.

One of the biggest problems is catching a dog thief in the act. That is, a dog who steals food or other stuff off a table or a cabinet when you are not watching. The trick is to catch him. For this you will need several empty soda or beer cans. When the cans are empty, wash and dry them. When they are dry inside, put about ten pennies in the can and seal it with tape. Line the cans up on the edge of a counter about six inches apart. Put a piece of food, or napkins, or whatever it is that he grabs off the table BEHIND the cans. When the booby trap is all set up, leave the room, but stay within earshot. When you hear the can hit the ground, come running in screaming. DO NOT EVER SET THIS UP UNLESS YOU CAN COME RUNNING WHEN YOU HEAR THE CANS FALL. Otherwise the dog will learn to spring the trap and get the bait.

The purpose of obedience training is to teach your dog to be a well-mannered companion, who is responsive to your commands and who looks to you for leadership. The process of training should be enjoyable for you both, and enhance the bond between you as well.

Dogs learn by associating an action with a consequence. If the consequence is pleasurable, the dog will tend to repeat the behavior. If the consequence is unpleasant, he will tend not to repeat the behavior.

In training you show your dog the action you wish, helping him to perform it by luring him with food or a toy, or by collar pressures. When he performs the action, you immediately provide a pleasant consequence, by rewarding him with a special praise word and giving him a small treat. This is called "positive reinforcement," and will cause your dog, after several repetitions, to repeat the action.

If you give your dog a command word at the same time that he performs the behavior, he will learn to associate the behavior with the command.

For example, in order to teach your dog to sit, say the command SIT as you help him to do it. This can be done by luring his head up with food or a toy held in your hand, which will cause his rear to sink into a sit, or by use of collar pressure coupled with the pressure of your hand on his rump. The instant he sits, say his special praise word and give him a tiny treat. After many repetitions of this he will make the association between the command word SIT and the act of sitting. He will learn to obey the command by being positively reinforced by your praise word and a treat.

You can speed up your dog's learning a lot by using a very special praise word reserved for the purpose of telling him that the action he is performing is correct and that he will be reinforced for it. You can also use a "clicker" instead of a special word. (Dolphin and killer whale trainers use a whistle for this purpose. You've probably seen this at dolphin shows or on TV. The whistle tells the dolphin that what he did was correct, and he can get a fish to eat.) We suggest using a single word such as "great" or "yes" or "wow" that is different from general praise words like "good boy."

You dog will first need to learn that this special sound, called a "conditioned reinforcer" means something. Teach this at home by saying the word (or clicking your clicker if you are using one) and immediately giving the dog a tiny, succulent food treat. The order is very important. FIRST you say the word, THEN you give the treat. Your dog shouldn't be doing anything special, just say the word and toss the treat. After several repetitions of this you will see your dog startle and look at you when you say the word. That means that he has learned that it means "a goodie is coming." Now you can use your conditioned reinforcer to clearly tell him he has performed an action correctly and will be reinforced for it, with food, a toy, praise, play, or all three.

In order for this to work, you must find something your dog likes and will work for that you can couple with your conditioned reinforcer. For most dogs, tiny pieces of soft, tasty food work best. We suggest tiny pieces of hot dog, cheese, soft-moist cat food, or lunch meat. Buy a cheap belt pack to carry the food in when you are training and at class. Once your dog has learned commands, you will not need to carry food, and can reinforce with praise, petting and play, but using food initially will help him learn much faster.

Remember that your conditioned reinforcer must be given the instant the dog obeys your command and while he is still performing the behavior, and not several seconds later. You will need to train him daily in order for commands to become part of his long-term memory. He needs to be quiet and controlled while you are teaching him. He can't learn if he is wildly excited or not paying attention to you. Therefore, begin his training in quiet, familiar places, and add distractions later as he becomes proficient in his commands.

As you start this obedience course, it will seem like there is a huge amount of things you need to learn and remember - new words, new ways of handling your dog, and new ways of relating to him. Don't worry about trying to learn it all at once. It will all be repeated over the weeks of the course and you'll find it becomes second nature as you gradually train your dog. Just relax and have fun.

It should take a while to teach the dog all this stuff. I am being vague on purpose!! Don't panic if the dog doesn't seem to be catching on in one week. Training takes time. If you doubt that the dog is making any progress, keep a training diary. This will help you see just how often you are training (once a week won't work) and you will be able to see that you ARE getting somewhere.

Vivian Bregman and the Border Collies in Northern New Jersey
Member of NADOI & APDT
CIVILIZE YOUR DOG
back to index

Remember that repetition is necessary. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him/her the desired behavior MANY times.

Keep in mind also that your puppy does not know what is expected and must be shown the proper place to eliminate, and when.

Your best potty training friend is your crate. When you cannot watch your puppy, use a crate. Think of the crate the same way you think of a playpen for a human child. Even if you are only leaving the room for a "minute," either take the puppy with you or use the crate. After all, you would not leave a toddler in the house alone "for just a minute" would you?

Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. The DEN is an integral part of the wild dogs upbringing and safety zone. The same thing applies to the "crate". Giving the pup special "treats" is a great way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate.

Use the crate wisely. Don't crate only when you are leaving the house. Place the puppy in the crate while you are home as well. Use it as a "safe" zone, or for "time outs". (thus keeping your sanity)

By crating when you are home AND while you are gone, the puppy becomes comfortable in the crate and not worried that you will not return, or that you are leaving him/her alone. This helps to eliminate separation anxiety later in life.

Most puppies will not soil their "den." The first couple of tries you might have some accidents, but don't be discouraged. An easy way to avoid accidents in the night for the first few weeks is by following this routine:

1. set your alarm for about 3 hrs after your normal bed time. When the alarm goes off, get up immediately, go to the crate and CARRY the pup outside (I do this in my robe, with my shoes kept by the door to the outside). Place him on the ground and encourage him to eliminate. PRAISE when he does, and bring him back to the crate. Go back to bed.

2. Set your alarm for another 3 hrs, and get back to sleep. When the alarm goes off repeat part 1.

3. After about a week of the above routine, IF it has been successful (no crate messing) then you can set the alarm for ½ way through your sleep time. Follow the remainder of part 1. When you arise in the morning, TAKE the pup outside BEFORE you do anything else. Feed the pup and then crate. Follow your regular waking routine, then walk the pup one more time before going off to work.

4. Repeat the feeding, walking and crating at lunch time. Pups from the ages of 2 to 4 months CANNOT control their elimination for much more than 4 hours, so if you cannot return home at lunch time, arrange for someone to do this for you at lunch.

If the CRATE is too large, the pup can easily soil on one side and sleep on the other. The way to prevent this is to buy a crate that will accommodate your pet when it is fully grown. Then get a box that will fit inside the back of the crate. The box should be large enough that there is only room for the puppy to stand and lie down comfortably.

As the puppy grows, provide more room by putting in a smaller box, or cutting down the size. When the puppy reliably asks to be put outside to eliminate, remove the box so the puppy can use the whole crate.

If the puppy messes the crate, replace the box size to the point at which the puppy was reliable, and just give the pup a little more time to learn. In conjunction with crate training, potty training starts immediately.

Whenever you remove the puppy from the crate or just want the puppy to "go potty," take the dog to the door that will always be used to "go outside." Use the SAME door throughout the training period.

On the handle of this door, tie a bell to a string, dropping it even with the height of the puppy's nose. When you bring the puppy to the door, lure the puppy to touch the bell with either it's nose or paw, (using a treat) causing the bell to ring.

After the puppy rings the bell, give it the treat, (use a SMALL piece of meat or dried liver) and say "OUTSIDE" in a happy tone of voice. Take the puppy outside on leash.

Reminder: During housebreaking DO NOT allow the pup outside to eliminate alone or loose in the yard. Yes, that means in the rain, snow, whatever: YOU GO OUTSIDE ALSO. Give the puppy plenty of time. Don't rush or you will be sorry. When the puppy urinates or defecates, praise the puppy with "Good Outside" and again, give the puppy a tiny, tiny treat.

Continue to wait. When the puppy poops, again praise the puppy with "Good Outside" and give a treat. Go back inside, stop at the door again, and treat once again. If the puppy does not "potty" even after staying outside 15 minutes, return back inside, place the puppy back into the crate, wait 15 minutes and start again from the beginning.

If done religiously, this training process should take only about 2 weeks for the puppy to understand. This method will work with any dog, regardless of age. If you adopt a dog from a shelter or a rescue program, follow the same routine. Remember, even though the dog is older or even an adult, he still does not know the rules of your home, and may not have ever BEEN in a house. Be PATIENT and this method WILL work.

Finally, heres my advice to all of my obedience students: Get a newspaper, roll it up tightly and secure with a rubber band. Keep it handy. When your puppy has an accident in the house, eats your favorite shoe, or does anything else inappropriate, you take the newspaper and whack YOURSELF in the head very hard, Saying, "BAD MOMMY (or Daddy)", several times<G>. In other words, its your fault! Watch that pup, and please crate train!

I do not use choke chains on dogs. There are many reasons but, if I was to give just one, and this is the one I use with clients, it is because if I gain control over the dog using physical force- I have control over the dog but anyone who is unable or unwilling to use the same force does not have control.

The hypothetical 90 year old lady with the aggressive Rottie coulld never gain physical control over the dog. But, given the right 90 year old lady, and the right Rottie she could gain mental control, *influence* is the word John Rogerson uses.

I see it all the time with private clients. The dog will do what dad tells(!) it to do (he uses physical punishment/corrections when necessary, and it works) BUT the wife has considerably less control and the kids have none. I believe that if dad had used only as much physical and tonal (deep voice) techniques as the youngest and weakest of the family.... the dog would treat all the people in the family the same. The 4 year old would have as much influence as dad.

Laura Van Dyne               The Canine Consultant
6283 County Road 100         e-mail: lvandyne@rof.net
Carbondale, Colorado 81623   (970) 963-3745
      Helping Dogs and Their People Learn Together

When my newest Border Collie (BC) was about two months old I rolled a tennis ball and she said, yea, a ball, so what.

I rolled it again and she looked at it -- c/t (click and treat) I had already taught her that the click meant a treat so she came to me for the treat as soon as she heard the click.
After four or five times I rolled it and didn't click when she looked at it. She looked at it, looked at me, and walked towards it -c/t.
Four or five of those and I didn't c/t when she walked towards it.
So she walked up to it I c/t.
Four or five or those and I didn't c/t when she almost touched it ---
so she touched it --- c/t jackpot and rolled ball again.
She ran up to it and touched it with her nose and ran to me for the treat ---
Four or five and no c/t until she moved it with her nose.

I think that you should have it by now --- slowly slowly step by slow step. She finally picked it up and I jackpotted (gave a bunch of treats).And went to bed.

Next night I planned on starting from scratch but as soon as I rolled the ball she ran to it and picked it up and I c/t and she came for the treat. We played with getting her to bring it closer and closer for awhile that evening and she finally did.

The following night, going against everything that I knew, I rolled a dumbbell about three feet from me. She ran to it, picked it up by the bell and brought it back.

For the past ten months we've been working on bringing it back by the bar and sitting front. And waiting for the command. She has never, so far, refused to bring it back, altho it's often to heel or to a crooked front, and, in fact, must be retrained from chasing everybody else's dumbell in Open class.

Last week she chased and brought back somebody else's --- big one, too. I made no fuss - it was my fault for not holding her tightly enough. And I'm not about to punish her for retrieving.

She now retrieves over a jump -- about 80% of the time going over both ways ---no, actually, she always goes over towards the dumbell, but not always back. But we haven't been doing it long. She hasn't been shown at all yet, so I figure we have time.

BTW, I also use a metal and leather article and glove now and then. I can't show her in Canada so I'm not bothering with the wooden articles. Hope this explains it.

I might add that I'm NOT convinced that a dog can be trained using nothing but the clicker, but it does seem to clarify things for them --- my timing is pretty good after all these years --- but I don't think that I could have said "GOOD" fast enough to have done it. The clicker is sharper in sound.

I couldn't believe that in three night she went from "So it's a ball, so what," to "Here's a toy, please throw it for me"! She's as much of a nuisance asking for toys to be thrown as any of my naturally compulsive retrievers.

This was written last year for the Clicker FAQ list. (and is still there even as we speak)
As of this point she has her UKC CDX and is still crazy for the dumbell.

Vivian Bregman and the Border Collies in Northern New Jersey
Member of NADOI & APDT
CIVILIZE YOUR DOG
back to index

Housetraining is a universal problem with a simple solution. These tips will help you train your puppy or older dog to eliminate outdoors.

Good Health Is Essential
Make sure your puppy or dog is healthy before undertaking housetraining. Intestinal parasites are the most common cause of inappropriate defecation.

Bladder infections are a frequent cause of inappropriate urination. Have a stool sample checked by your veterinarian. If you suspect a bladder problem, have a urine sample checked as well. Symptoms of bladder infection include frequent urination of small amounts, unproductive straining, or licking of private parts.

Feed your puppy a good quality puppy food. Avoid over feeding or making sudden changes in his diet; both can cause diarrhea. Another common problem arises when a dog has been given steroids to treat a bee sting or allergic reaction. Steroids usually increase the dog’s water intake and urine output.

Scheduling
Feed your puppy on a fairly regular schedule, two or three times a day. Allow 30 minutes for each meal, and remove the leftovers after that time. Maintaining a feeding schedule helps predict output.

Schedule your puppy’s trips outdoors. The average puppy needs frequent opportunities to eliminate. Start first thing in the morning with a trip outside as soon as your puppy awakens. Puppies feel the call of nature about every hour when they are awake and playing. They need to go out soon after eating, and after drinking water. By the age of 10 or 12 weeks, the average healthy puppy can sleep through the night. If your puppy has an accident, examine the schedule and make adjustments to prevent future accidents.

Confinement
One of the most valuable tools in housetraining is the dog crate. Intended to be used like a baby’s playpen or crib, the crate keeps the puppy safely confined when no one is available to supervise her. Crating prevents accidents for the normal puppy, because her instinct to keep her nest clean is very strong. Crating also prevents her from destroying your treasured possessions while she is teething, or injuring herself by chewing on or ingesting something harmful.

Your puppy should be crated at night while you are asleep, and any other time you cannot supervise his activities. This includes times when you are on the phone or in the shower, or doing anything that prevents you from paying full attention to your puppy. He should have an opportunity to go outside every time you let him out of his crate.

Training
Every time you take your puppy outside, give her plenty of cues. As you walk out the door with her, say “Let’s go outside.” Take her to her spot, and repeat your cue phrase as she is about to eliminate. (Be sure to use a phrase that does not come up in every day conversation. Avoid cues such as “hurry up” or “be a good dog” in favor of something more specific, such as “do your piddles.”) When she goes, praise her enthusiastically and reward her with a very small food treat, right there on the spot. After several
repetitions of this routine, your puppy will learn to eliminate on cue (very useful in bad weather or strange places) and learn that eliminating outside is more fruitful than eliminating inside. After a week of this, continue to praise the puppy every time she goes outside, but reward with food on a more random basis. In a couple of weeks, you won’t need the food reward at all.

Accidents
If you find an accident, clean it up, and consider adjusting your puppy’s schedule to prevent another accident. Punishing your puppy only teaches him to be wary of you. If you catch him in the act and punish or correct him, he will learn to eliminate when you aren’t looking, which will defeat your training program. If you should see your puppy circling as if he has to go, gently remind him to “go outside” and help him get to his spot where he can earn praise and a reward.

Accidents happen most frequently in the morning or evening when the puppy is out playing with the family. It is easy to become so involved in an activity that you forget that the puppy hasn’t been outside in an hour. If this is the case, find a way to remind yourself, such as setting a kitchen timer or alarm clock.

Patience
Unrealistic expectations are a frequent cause of problems in housetraining. On average, the bladder/brain connection is not fully formed until the puppy is about 8 months old. If a young puppy does go to the door and “ask to go out,” his need is immediate, he must go out right away. Some dogs never learn to ask to go out, while others learn quickly to go to the door and sit or bark or ring a bell. Some dogs learn to use a dog door easily and go out whenever they feel the urge. The best way to ensure success is to stick to a schedule long enough for the puppy’s body to adapt to it and get in the habit of eliminating at particular times.

Neuter or Spay
If you are not planning to enter your dog in conformation competition, neutering or spaying helps ensure successful housetraining. Neutered males still lift their legs, but are less inclined to mark their territory (including the priceless antique chair legs and the floor-length drapes). They are also less prone to certain cancers and prostate problems that can lead to accidents in older dogs. Unspayed females ovulate twice a year, on average. For several weeks before and during the heat cycle they are more prone to mark territory. They are also more vulnerable to bladder problems that can lead to accidents.

Paper Training Is Not Housetraining
Teaching your puppy to eliminate indoors on newspaper does not lead to success in housetraining. Dogs are place oriented, and once taught to go in a particular place on a particular surface will continue to do so. Careless newspaper readers are liable to reach for a section they left on the floor only to find it has been used by the family dog.

If you must confine your puppy for more than six or eight hours at a time, or if you live in a high-rise apartment with a small dog, consider using a “litter box” for your dog. A plastic under-the-bed storage container, lid removed, filled with bark mulch will serve this purpose very well. The mulch absorbs urine odors, and smells and feels like “outside.” You can confine your puppy in a small room, such as a bathroom, with a baby gate, giving him enough room for a comfy bed, his water dish, and his mulch box.
This approach works well for young puppies and very elderly dogs with health problems, and is less likely to interfere with your efforts to train your dog to eliminate outside.

Scottee Meade Burke, VA 'Tee Party Bostons
Canine Behavior Consultant
Member, Association of Pet Dog Trainers and Old Dominion Kennel Club
back to index

Dogs love to chew. Puppies chew to investigate their environment and to relieve the discomfort of teething. Adult dogs chew because it feels good, it helps pass the time when there’s nothing else to do, and sometimes because a tooth hurts or some nutrient is missing from the diet. Left to their own devices, dogs will often chew on the first object they come across, or an object that smells like the owner. Sometimes a food smell attracts them. Whatever the reason, chewing problems are easier to prevent than correct, and are best corrected using positive methods.

Punishment
Punishing a dog for inappropriate chewing is seldom successful in correcting the problem. To be effective as a training tool, punishment must be 100% consistent. If a dog is punished for chewing in the owner’s presence, he simply learns to chew when the owner is absent. Punishment more than 3 seconds after the crime is not effective; the dog has already forgotten the crime. If you come home to a scene of destruction, very calmly tell your dog to go get a chew toy and praise him for bringing one to you. If you are really angry and must let off steam, go in another room, away from the dog, and beat up a pillow. Beating a dog simply teaches him to fear the person beating him, and possibly people in general.

Prevention
The best way to protect your furnishings and possessions is to start when your puppy is very young, confining it when you cannot supervise play, providing sufficient exercise and proper nutrition, offering appropriate chew toys, and praising the pup lavishly for using them. Crating your pup can be a life-saver, preventing it from chewing electrical cords or ingesting poisons when left unsupervised. Make sure the crate is large enough to allow the pup to stretch out. Provide a comfy bed, and a couple of really good chew toys.

When you are with the pup but unable to supervise closely, confine it with a leash attached to your belt. Make sure the pup won’t chew the leash, and provide one or two good chew toys. Try to catch the pup in the act of chewing the right thing and praise lavishly.

Exercise Body and Mind
Many chewing problems are solved simply by ensuring the dog has sufficient exercise. A 30-minute walk in the morning before the dog is left for the day will help relax and even tire the dog enough to reduce the desire to chew. Incorporating some training exercises into the walk, such as having the dog sit or down at several points on the walk, and doing a come-fore exercise 3 or 4 times will also help relax the dog. If a walk is impossible, 15 or 20 minutes of tossing a ball in the backyard or down a flight of carpeted stairs for the dog to retrieve will do the trick. The dog should also have some exercise in the evening, to help it relax for bedtime.

Training
Take the time to teach your dog to chew on chew toys. Always reinforce your dog with lots of praise when you “catch him in the act” of chewing on his own toys. Play games such as toss and fetch with a toy to increase his interest. If the problem chewing occurs when you leave the house and is focused on belongings that smell like you, try to leave your scent on his own toys. Carry a new chew toy around in your pocket for a day and handle it, or just rub your hands over one of his toys. Once he has the hang of chewing on his toys, teach him to “Go get a chew toy,” praising him when he brings one to you.

Keep chew toys in every room of the house until the dog gets good at finding them on command or on his own. Eventually, you can keep them in a centrally located toy basket, making sure that the dog has unlimited access to them. Periodically you will have to fish them out from under chairs and sofas and return them to the basket.

Once this training is under way, you can lead the dog to a forbidden object, such as drapes or shoes or electrical cords. Move the object around, and just as he is about to sniff or lick or chew the object, say “OFF!” in a firm voice, and then, “Go get your chew toy.” Repeat this several times, and then if you catch him investigating a forbidden object on his own, repeat the “OFF” and “Go get your chew toy.” command. This is what trainers call an instructive reprimand, letting him know by tone of voice and words what is wrong and how he can correct the problem.

Appropriate Chew Toys
Provide your dog with a variety of chew toys, including a Kong toy, nylon bones, sterilized marrow bones, and a soft “Chew Man” type or twisted rope toy. Different dogs prefer different textures, and one dog may prefer several different toys depending on its mood. Avoid home-made toys like worn-out tennis shoes or knotted socks. It takes extra time to teach the dog the difference between the old shoes and your brand-new $100 running shoes, and certain fibers, like the nylon in socks or hose can be very dangerous to a dog when ingested. It is cheaper to spend money on good dog toys than to replace your good clothes. Hollow toys, such as the Kong or marrow bones can be stuffed with peanut butter or cheese to increase desirability. After some trial and error, you will discover what your dog likes best. It’s a good idea to stock up on favorite toys, so that new ones are always available.

Nutrition and Health
If your older dog suddenly develops a chewing problem, have your vet do a thorough exam to rule out illness, such as an abscessed tooth. With all dogs, be sure that the diet is adequate to meet that dog’s nutritional needs. A dog with a fixation on chewing a particular substance (such as wood or paper) may have a pica, a craving for something missing from the diet. Look for a food with as little filler as possible, and avoid foods with additives and byproducts.

Many dogs develop destructive chewing habits when their feeding schedule changes, specifically when meals are decreased from twice a day to once a day. All dogs should be fed at least twice a day (growing puppies three times a day) to prevent such chewing problems, as well as other potentially serious health problems.

Scottee Meade Burke, VA 'Tee Party Bostons
Canine Behavior Consultant
Member, Association of Pet Dog Trainers and Old Dominion Kennel Club
back to index

Why use a crate?? I certainly wouldn't want to spend hours locked up in area barely big enough to stand up and turn around in. BUT --- I am not a dog, and neither are you. A dog is a den animal. If you look at where your dog chooses to spend his sleeping time, you will most likely find that it is behind a chair, under a table, or in a secluded corner. He wants and needs a bed of his own, a den, someplace where he can be alone.

A crate is by far the best and easiest way to prevent most of the problems that cause many people to get rid of their dogs. You need a crate for your dog if he has housebreaking accidents, if he destroys things when left alone, if you have small children who don't understand that a dog needs time alone, if you have company who is afraid of dogs, if you travel with your dog and want to reassure the motel or your host that the dog will not get into trouble when left alone, and, most important of all, you need a crate for your dog if you want the very best trained dog possible.

When do you want to start use of the crate? The best time is when you first bring the puppy home. If you have bought the puppy from a breeder there is an excellent probability that he is already used to a crate. If he is under four months old he should have no problem accepting the crate as his "home" . If he is older it will not be as easy, but it can and should be done.

Where does the crate go? My crate sits in the corner of the dining room, away from the heat and away from drafts. Yours can be in the corner of the kitchen or the playroom or someplace similar. That is, a people oriented place. Do not use newspaper in the crate. Instead use a piece of blanket, towel or some kind of matting that can be washed in case of accident.

A dog crate is a rectangular enclosure with a top and a door, made in a variety of sizes proportioned to fit any size dog. Constructed of wire, wood, metal, or molded fiberglass/plastic, its purpose is to provide guaranteed confinement for reasons of secu-rity, safety, housebreaking, protection of household goods, travel, illness, or just general control.

The dog crate has long been accepted, trusted, and taken for granted by dog show exhibitors, obedience and field trial competitors, trainers, breeders, groomers, vet-erinarians, and anyone else who handles dogs regularly. Individual pet owners usually re-ject the idea of using a crate because they consider such enforced close confinement unfair and even harmful to the dog.

The dog, however, sees it as having a room of his own: it's his own private special place, a "security blanket". A Playpen. The crate helps to satisfy the "den instinct" inherited from his den-dwelling ancestors and relatives, and he is not afraid or frustrated when closed in. He is actually much happier and more secure having his life controlled and structured by human beings -- and would far rather be prevented from causing trouble than be punished for it later.

A dog crate, correctly and humanely used, can have many advantages for both you and your dog.

With the help of a crate you can enjoy complete peace of mind when leaving your dog home alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and that he is comfortable, protected, and not developing any bad habits. You can housebreak your dog more quickly by using the close confinement to encourage control, establish a regular routine for outdoor elimination, and to prevent "accidents" at night or when left alone. You can effectively confine your dog at times when he may be underfoot (meals, family activities), unwelcome (guests, workmen etc.), over-excited, bothered by too much confusion such as too many children, or ill. You can travel with your dog without risk of the driver being dangerously distracted or the dog getting loose and helplessly lost, together with the assurance that he can easily adapt to any strange surroundings as long as he has his familiar "security blanket" along. He is also more welcome in motels and in other people's homes when the host is told that the dog will be crated in the room and therefore unable to make problems.

The crate should be large enough to permit the dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting his head on the top. Remember that a crate too large defeats the purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control.

New crates can be purchased in retail pet shops and discount pet food and supply outlets, through catalog sales firms such as Sears, at the larger dog shows, from dog equipment catalogs, from a crate manufacturer, or from an obedience instructor. Even the most expensive dog crate is a bargain when compared to the cost of repairing or replacing a sofa, chair, woodwork, wallpaper, or carpeting. Make it very clear to children that the crate is NOT a playhouse for them, but a "special room" for the puppy,
whose rights should be recognized and respected. However, you should accustom the puppy from the start to letting YOU reach into the crate at any time, lest he become overprotective of it.

Establish a "crate routine" as soon as you bring the puppy home, or as soon there-after as possible. Close the puppy in it at regular one to two hour intervals during the day (his own chosen nap times will guide you) and whenever he must be left alone for up to three or four hours. Give him a chew toy for distraction and be sure to remove collar and tags which could become caught in an opening.

If things do not go too smoothly at first, do not weaken and do not worry -- just be consistent, firm and aware that you are doing your pet a real favor by preventing him from getting into trouble while left alone. Make sure that you do not let the dog out of the crate while he is barking or he will think that barking is the key to opening the door to the crate.

Start by making the crate smaller, and then increase the space inside the crate as the puppy grows so that he remains comfortable. Plan to use the crate until the puppy is ten or twelve months old -- well past the chewing stage.

Most people feel that a chewing puppy is normal, and that he will "grow out of it". Be aware that dogs do not grow out of problems. While puppy chewing is normal teething, it very quickly becomes a habit which can be easily prevented with the use of a crate together with his "chew toy".

In order to housebreak a dog, take him out of the crate on a six foot lead (carrying him if he is small enough) to the "potty" spot. Stand still so that the dog cannot wander. This spot should be close enough to the house so that you can get to it when the weather is bad, and to clean it up, but far enough from the house to avoid odors. Say "Potty" or "Business" or whatever word you want to use, and praise him for the act, and give him a small treat if he does what you want.

Once he has relieved himself, take him for a walk of at least fifteen minutes. The mistake that many people make when house training their dog is to walk the dog until the dog relieves himself and then take him into the house. The dog, in order to get a longer walk, puts off relieving himself, sometimes miscalculating and waiting too long. This leads the owner to say that the dog is "spiteful" and waiting until he is inside to "do it on the carpet on purpose".

Once your dog has relieved himself outside in the potty spot, and has gotten his treat and his walk, take him into the house and let him loose for about one hour. Although the chances are the dog will not relieve himself in the house, he must be watched. If he starts to do something you don't want him to do, you can catch him in the act and teach him that it is wrong. After an hour or so loose in the house, take him out again. If he does his "Business" you can reward him and take him for a walk. Continue this system all day long, putting him in the crate when he cannot be supervised. Since he does not want to soil his bed, he will wait for his walk. This may not work as well or as quickly with a "pet shop" puppy because they spend so much time in a crate and use the crate for their "business".

When your dog has an accident do not rub his nose in it or hit him.
    a. If you catch him in the act of eliminating, startle him with your voice, scold him and immediately take him to his toilet area. Praise him there if he finishes eliminating. Praise him mildly even if he only sniffs the area.
    b. If you didn't catch him in the act, don't scold him when you find the mess, just clean it up and vow to watch him more closely. Punishing after the fact doesn't work. Your dog simply can't understand and connect your punishment with the act of eliminating which he did sometime before. If this punishment method worked, all dogs would be housebroken! He may look submissive ("guilty") because he knows you are angry at him - he can easily tell by your body posture and tone of voice - but this has no bearing on the act of elimina-tion he did earlier.
   c. Clean accidents thoroughly as the scent will draw him back to use the area again. Don't use ammonia as there is ammonia in urine.
   d. If your dog consistently house soils in one area try feeding him there or keep his water bowl there.
   e. If accidents are frequent he needs to be watched much more closely and taken out more often.
         Don't be in a hurry to allow your pup unsupervised freedom. Housebreaking will be done long before he learns what not to chew. The crate will protect him and your belongings!

Housebreaking is an all-or-nothing procedure. If your dog eliminates occasionally in the house, he's not housebroken! It does not mean "tell me when you have to go out" as some dogs will ask you to play doorman many times a day. Housebreaking eventually should mean "hold it and wait until I take you out."

The key to housebreaking is really simple: Prevent accidents and praise correct performance!

Vivian Bregman and the Border Collies in Northern New Jersey
Member of NADOI & APDT
CIVILIZE YOUR DOG
About Vivian

When you bring your puppy home for the first time, pick out a location for the puppy's bed that is safe and comfortable. One of the best house breaking and containment methods is to put your puppy in a crate. Some people think a crate is mean or cruel, it is the complete opposite, it is a "home" or a safe haven for your pet. Keep the crate door open when you are home and close the door when you are sleeping or out of the house or cannot watch it. If the puppy is not cooperating and does not want to enter the crate, put a few treats in it at first to entice the puppy to enter.

The crate minimizes the potential damage that the puppy might do to your house and furniture. This also helps to minimize your anger at the puppy for doing "puppy things,"--chewing, pulling at things, etc. The crate protects the puppy from harming itself, for example, choking on small items, shock from chewing
through wires, pulling items down on it and so many more!

When dogs were in the wild, they would often "burrow" into the ground to create a den for safety. A crate is your puppy's "den." You need a crate that is large enough for your puppy to turn around in comfortably. Block part of the crate off if you purchase a large crate for later use. Your puppy will try not to soil its "home." Do not expect your puppy to "hold" for long periods of time. Do not put your puppy in a crate and expect it to stay there all day without soiling it. It can not! You must remember it is still a baby.

Dogs like to be near their family and that means you. When the puppy first comes home, put the crate next to your bed so you will wake up during the night when the puppy needs to go outside. You can also reach down and reassure the puppy if it cries during the night. Do not, under any circumstances, put the puppy in bed with you unless you intend for it to sleep there as an adult.

It is very difficult for the puppy to understand if you allow it there at the beginning and then do not want it in your bed later. Keep in mind if you are single and then marry, it could cause a real problem.

Do not force a puppy to remain in a soiled crate. You must arrange your schedule to avoid this from happening. Clean out the crate regularly! We recommend that you use a non-ammonia cleaner, because ammonia is similar to a puppy's urine, the smell will attract him and he will repeat the behavior. You may want to purchase commercial dog soiling cleaners at a local pet store. Do not punish the dog if it soils the crate. Remember, a new puppy needs to go out every 2 hours, for example, each time it eats, wakes up, after a play session, and any other time it starts "sniffing" around the area.

You will not need to continue crating once your dog becomes an adult (and is trustworthy), but your dog will probably enjoy the continued use of the crate as it's own special place. If you decide not to keep the crate, slowly wean it off once the dog is older and you are able to trust it in your home.

NEVER Use the Crate as a Punishment!
Written and Contributed by Jeanneane Kutsukos,
Pro Dog Training, Inc.,
Springfield, VA,
copyright 9/1/97
back to index

First, always keep in mind that it is natural for a puppy to chew. The puppy is not doing this to annoy you, but because it is a normal function of a puppy, just as it is in a human baby. Keep this in mind, and be sure not to ever hit or strongly punish the puppy for doing what is natural to it. Everything goes into the mouth, and everything is chewed.

What we need to do is to teach the puppy what is correct to chew on, and what is not. Be sure to supply your puppy with a variety of toys that are permissible for it to chew. Nylabones are excellent, but stay away from the ones with the sharp points on them. Watch carefully! When the knobs on the end are gone, you have to throw it away. There is also a Nylaring that costs a little more but lasts a lot longer.

Another good item is the Kong, which is made of hard rubber and lasts a long time. Please keep in mind that cheap toys are not worth the money, the puppy can destroy them too easily and can choke on the pieces that it chews. Chew ropes are also good, but again, watch to see if it starts coming apart. Take it away immediately at that point. Squeaky toys are also handy, but again, you must be careful to throw it away when it starts to get a hole. The squeaker can choke the puppy.

Always have one of his chew toys handy. Each time the puppy chews on something other than one of the toys, firmly tell the puppy "no" and give the puppy one of his own chew toys. When the puppy starts chewing on the proper item, say "Good Puppy" (Good boy or good girl is fine also.) This teaches it what is acceptable to chew on and what is not.

Anytime the puppy is biting, and especially during a play session, say "ouch" and immediately stop playing. This lets the puppy know that the biting is unacceptable. This method is called "ouching" and everyone in the family should do it.

Use your intelligence to help keep the puppy away from unwanted chewing. If the pup chews on shoes, keep them in your closet with the door closed. Keep books and other chewables out of the pup’s reach. Go through your home (on your hands and knees if necessary) and look to see what is tempting for your puppy to chew on. Eliminate any unsafe or inappropriate items.

Another handy aide to help prevent chewing -- is a product called Bitter Apple. It can be purchased at pet stores and through pet catalogs. Be sure to test spot it prior to spraying on a good piece of furniture. It must be reapplied daily, as it wears off in approximately 24 hours. There is also available a Bitter Apple for furniture that lasts longer.

You can have a toy box for your puppy and have all the toys kept in it. Then they are handy and you also know where to get one when you need one. The pup will eventually learn where they are and get a toy out by itself. Every once in a while, put a little treat (milk bones are great!) in the toy box to get the pup used to looking in it.

Be sure to use lots of praise anytime the pup is doing something right, whether it is chewing on the right toy, eliminating outside, sitting when told, etc.

My husband and I are proprietors of a training facility, and we also breed black German Shepherd Dogs. When we meet prospective clients for a puppy sale, we cover the following points to help them decide if they are really ready for a puppy.

There are several questions that need to be answered honestly before you consider purchasing our breed, or any other large breed. Realize first that the pup is going to take a lot of time and work because it is still a baby. Therefore, you must have the time and facilities available to take proper care of your puppy.

First, space is an important consideration. A shepherd is a large dog and even though your puppy may seem small at this time, it will definitely become much bigger. Large dogs must have a lot of exercise. If you are a regular runner (and this means in the winter months as well as the warmer months), and you can take the dog with you on a daily basis, a large yard may not be necessary. If you are a couch potato, or somewhere in between, you should have a fenced yard for the dog to get plenty of exercise. A dog kept in a small area has no way of "running off" its energy and will become a problem.

Second, do you have the time and energy to work with your puppy? A puppy is going to take a lot of time and patience. Your puppy will not grow up overnight and will need a lot of gentle guidance.

Third, do you have some way of containing the puppy until it has matured enough not to hurt itself or to destroy the house? Along with veterinarians and animal rescue groups, we recommend keeping the puppy in a crate.

Fourth, do you have children and will they be taught to treat the dog gently? A puppy can be a great companion to a child but is not a toy for them to hit, sit on, pull, tug, kick, etc. For your puppy to grow up with a good temperament, it must be treated humanely by everyone in the family.

We have bred, raised and loved these puppies from day one. We know they will make excellent family members if raised properly. We want them all to go to good homes where they will be happy, so please understand the breeders' desire to be sure one of their puppies is right for you.

Coming when called is perhaps one of the most important exercises that your dog needs to learn as it is not only useful but essential for his/her safety. The following are some exercises to strengthen and instill this behaviour.

Home Exercises
It is important to begin teaching the recall in a low distraction environment as the behaviour is more likely to occur and thus be rewarded. The dog's own house also provides a familiar and safe environment whereby to begin.

1. Stand facing the dog, say ‘come' and back away about 8 feet while clapping your hands and praising the dog as he approaches. Stop, ask the dog to sit, gently take the collar and give him a treat. Once successful at 8 feet, increase the distance to 10 feet etc...

2. Call the dog from a distance of 8 feet. Praise him as he comes toward you. Stop, ask the dog to sit, gently take the collar and give him a treat. If the dog does not come or shows indications of not coming, give a verbal reprimand such as ‘ah ah ah ah' while going to get him. Take him gently by the collar and bring him to the spot where you called him from. Ask for a sit, take the collar and reward with a food treat. Increase your distance as reliability increases.

Change the activity by doing a recall through your legs. As the dog arrives, toss a ball or other toy through your legs. This will increase the dogs motivation to come to you. Alternate the exercises to keep him guessing as to whether you'll throw something through your legs as the reward or give a food treat for a sit!

3. Send the dog between two or three different persons in a room. Each person calls the dog, one at a time and asks for a sit on arrival, takes the collar and then rewards. That person then tells the dog to ‘go see (name of person)' The next person then calls the dog to him/her.

4. Call the dog ‘fido come' from different rooms within the house. If dog comes, does a sit and allows you to take his collar then give a food treat. If the dog chooses not to come, make sure you go and get him and gently bring him to the spot where you called from, ask for a sit and then reward.

5. Other exercises that can be done are as follows: Have one person with the dog's meal and call the dog toward you. If dog comes, then food bowl is put down as the reward.

Any situation whereby there is eagerness on the part of the dog, such as going out the door, getting a Rawhide chewie etc.. are invaluable to do a recall away from. The reward then becomes entrance out the door or getting the chewie..

6. Once your dog can do all of the above exercises with good reliability, try practicing at other people's homes.

1. If you have a fenced in backyard, have the dog on leash and practice your recalls by calling the dog toward you while you back up. Use plenty of praise. Ask for a sit, take the collar and food reward. Once he is reliable ‘on leash' you can practice the exercise ‘off leash'.

2. When walking the dog, turn around and call the dog toward you while you back up. Use plenty of praise. Ask for a sit, take the collar and food reward.

3. Take a long section of clothesline and attach firmly to the dogs collar. Go to an open area with no other distractions. Call the dog and praise as he is coming toward you. If he deters and does not respond, go get him and gently bring him back to the spot where you originally did the recall. Ask for a sit, take the collar and treat. Do not drag the dog toward you by the line. You want the dog to associate the experience as being pleasurable not unpleasant.

4. Once he is reliable in the above exercises, add more distractions. For example go to places where there may be other dogs or people. Repeat the same procedure.

5. Go to enclosed areas where you can safely have the dog off leash. Repeat the above by starting off with no distractions. Once reliable, add distraction.

6. Call your dog off a moving target such as a ball. Begin by doing so while on leash. Roll the ball and as he begins to go toward it, say ‘fido come' and praise and treat when the dog sits in front of you. Do not allow the dog to get to the ball as he will be reinforced for ‘not' listening to you. Once reliable, practice ‘off leash'. As mentioned in the home exercises, any situation whereby there is eagerness on the part of the dog, such as going into the dog run or park, are invaluable to do a recall away from. The reward then becomes entrance to those areas.

Remember the following:
a) the more you practice in all environments, the better and stronger the recall.

b) provide the verbal feedback the dog requires. Praise him throughout his coming toward you and 'verbally mark' him when he does not respond by saying 'ah ah ah'.

c) use ‘novel' food rewards along with praise. Extra special treats that the dog doesn't normally get such as liver treats, small pieces of cut up hot dogs etc..

d) go slowly, don't expect too much too soon. Initially keep dog on leash and distractions at a minimum. Only progress when the dog reliably ‘comes' on leash before doing ‘off leash' exercises.

e) as with all training, make it fun for both you and the dog. Don't train when frustrated or in a bad mood. Keep training sessions short and pleasurable.

f) while continuing to verbally praise, begin to decrease the amount of food rewards by asking for two recalls for 1 treat, then 3 recalls for 1 treat etc.. Do not begin to do this until recalls are quite reliable. Do not have high expectations. Do this gradually over weeks.

g) make it happen. If you ask for a 'come' and the dog chooses not to, it is up to you to get the dog and bring him to where you originally called.

Chewing Highlights:
*Chewing is a good behavior because it releaves stress.
*Puppy's chew to loosen teeth and sooth gums.
*Provide a good selection of toys (different tastes and tectures) for your dog.
*Avoid inappropirate toys (wrong size or durability) for your pet.
*Use Grannicks Apple Bitter or Tabasco Sauce to deter destructive chewing.
*Teach your dog to chew on "his" toys by signaling to him "YES" and rewarding him when he does!
*Discard any broken or easily swallowed toys. When your dog is busy chewing he isn't barking or digging!

Why does my puppy chew on EVERYTHING?
Puppies chew for many reasons. The most common one is that they cutting new teeth. This is not only painful, but it can also feel weird to have loose things dangling in your mouth! Chewing on things helps sooth and loosen the gums around the teeth (many of which are chewed and swallowed along with whatever they else the puppy is chewing on!)

My dog is almost two years old, and he still chews on everything!
Many dogs chew to relieve stress and anxiety. This doesn't mean you have an anxious dog. It just means you dog knows that when he chews, he feels better. Chewing causes a chemical release of endorphins which actually sooth and calm your dog. This is very good because it means that he will be less anxious when he is with you!

You mean chewing is good?
YES! It helps reduce plaque on teeth and gums, it keeps teeth strong, it releases stress and it is the easiest dog behavior to channel! I actually tell people CONGRATULATIONS! You got lucky with a dog that likes to chew! Now all you have to do is channel that Destructive Chewing to become Constructive Chewing." Simply teach him he can't chew on your stuff, but he can chew on his!

But this destructive chewing is costing me an arm and a leg! Where do I start?
Start by getting six toys for the dog to chew on. They should be of different varieties. I suggest: tennis ball, rope toy, Nylabone (original), Gummabone (transparent color), Kong (red variety), Sterilized Beef Bone sold at pet supply stores (Avoid the butcher bones as they are not hardened like the sterilized variety.) If you must supply your dog with Rawhide purchase only the "compressed Rawhide" variety. Regular "knotted" Rawhide (the kind we see everywhere) do not break down in the intestinal tract and can cause serious stomach and intestinal problems.

My dog has tons of toys and he stills chews on everything!
Most dogs can't discriminate between what is "yours" and what is "theirs" until they are trained! Start by discarding all broken or dangerous toys. Clean, disinfect and dry the remaining toys. Pick three toys and use those exclusively at first. To train a dog to play with "his" toys you must first teach him that his toys are a reward.

Teach my dog toys are good? Shouldn't he know that already?
Well, yes and no. First off, dogs that are destructive chewers think that everything is a toy! What we must do is teach him that toys are special and very different from a sofa leg. One neat way to do this is to play with the dog using "his" toys. In this way, he associates not only fun with you, but fun with his toys. This increases the likelyhood that he will play with his toys when you are not around. Allowing him to associate food with "his toys" is another good way to curb destructive chewing. Simply fill a hollow toy with low fat, low sodium peanut butter or low fat cream cheese. Allow the dog to lick out the filling and each time he licks - instant reward - Food!

What kind of toys should I fill and what else can I put in a toy?
I like using a Kong or Sterilized Beef Bone because they are dog-safe, hollow and can be easily filled. You can fill a toy with anything your dog likes. If your dog loves ice, put a bit of peanut butter to seal any holes in the toy. Fill with water, freeze and presto - a true pupsicle! Or you might fill it with canned dog food and freeze it. Or you might just stuff it with puppy biscuits or small raw carrots. Be sure to clean and disinfect the toy's after use however! (Most toys are dishwasher safe for a good cleaning!)

What if he's chewing on my furniture? What then?
This is where owner responsibility comes in. You, as the owner, must accept responsibility to teach the dog what to chew on. But remember that it's easier (and more pleasant) to reward your dog frequently, rather than punish him frequently! This means removing valuable or important items from his reach. Either put those things away or keep the dog confined when you are not watching him. Deterrents like Grannic's Bitter Apple® for Furniture or Tabasco Sauce® can be helpful in reducing destructive chewing, but they aren't a cure for destructive chewing and shouldn't replace good supervision.

But what if I actually catch him actively chewing on my things?
Keep it simple! Make a noise "Aght" to startle him, then give him something he can chew on, and when he chews on his toy praise him with "YES, good dog!"

But I want him to know never to touch my things. How will he learn if I don't discipline him?
Most dogs will outgrow misbehavior if it isn't allowed to develop. (In fact, if your dog doesn't have any major behavior problems by the age of two, he probably never will!) Very simply put, dogs are reward based creatures. Dogs will stop behaviors that do not earn them reward, but will CONTINUE behaviors that do earn them reward. So, NO! You don't have to punish your dog to teach him not to chew! Discipline is what we use to "train" when we haven't taken the time to train properly in the first place.

Disposing of "dead" toys is very important. Dead toys are toys that have been partially, or totally, destroyed. Most toys will be destroyed, especially if you have an active chewer (remember active chewing is GOOD!).

Discard any that have broken or sharp edges.

Discard any that are small enough that they may be swallowed.

Discard any toys that cannot be cleaned and sterilized monthly. (This will reduce bacteria.)

Discard any solid raw hide toys that have been softened or pulled apart.

Discard any rope toys that have been "pulled apart" (have no knotted ends).

Discard any lambswool or stuffed toys that have been pulled into bite-size pieces.

Discard any squeaker toys with loose squeakers.

Discard any soft toy that your dog could swallow or ingest.

1.     Correct lead hold: Right hand: Right thumb through loop at end of lead, close hand to grasp loop, two fingers (index and middle) grasp lead about ? way down to create "loop of slack". Place hand on pelvis. Left hand on top of right hand or used on lead to bring dog back to position. Small dog owners may want to keep the left hand on the lead by the left upper thigh.
2.   Control techniques: To keep your dog under control:
    a.   Always keep an eye on your dog -- watch for changes in body language or "staring" so you can anticipate breaks in position or control
    b.   Maintain a stable body position by adopting a wide body stance and keeping your lead safely anchored to your pelvis with both hands.
    c.   Try to keep your lead loose at all times. If your dog starts to pull:
        1.   Take a quick step back or away and turn your dog to face you
        2.   Drop your "loop of slack" and shift your weight back slightly (should
result in a light pop or tug to get dog's attention)
        3.   Turn and walk or jog away - a short quick step, to get your dog
following you (not dragging him!)
**When you get your dog's attention - PRAISE and readjust the lead
    d.   Use the "left hand slide" to smoothly and quickly adjust the lead
length, pick up slack or change your dog's position
    e.   "Control the head, control the dog": When physically positioning or restraining your dog, always control the head and front end by keeping a firm grip on the collar, underjaw or head (or muzzle).
    f.   Teach your dog to assume and hold a base position (sit on handler's left) where he is less likely to break away.
    g.   Keep your dog busy by doing short easy exercises, like the "ready" eye contact game or grabbing a special toy.
    f. Shape attentive and loose lead behavior -- When you notice your dog watching you or making an effort to stay close, PRAISE HIM!

Basic lead handling:
Approaching other dogs and people: First, Find your dog's "trigger zone" (distance where he can still respond to you easily or not start to stare, growl, bark, lunge etc.).
1.   Try to keep your dog outside of trigger zone until you can work on socialization exercises.
2. If you do approach the trigger zone (dog alerts to other dog) DO NOT reinforce or create nervousness/ frustration by pulling back on the lead or tightening up on it -- THIS IS THE WORST THING YOU CAN DO! Also, do not grab or reassure your dog, as these actions only cause more problems!
3. To "counter-condition" in new behavior: As you approach the trigger zone:
    a. Watch for the instant your dog alerts, and
    b. Quickly redirect your dog to a new activity: "ready" eye contact, about-turn, food, sit, grab a toy.
    c. Praise for participation in new activity.
    d. Continue until your dog is anticipating the new activity, and is responding easily - then move closer to the dog/ person to establish a closer trigger zone (i.e., dog can get closer to object before getting upset). Repeat process.

Considerations BEFORE You Buy a Dane Puppy

Lyn Richards

To be a good family member and citizen Danes MUST be trained in at least rudimentary obedience. Their great size and tendency to be bossy means that the owner must be master in his household, and the dog needs to understand this. Training in obedience for the dog, and in behavior modification (understanding how a dog thinks) for the owner are both helpful.

Great Danes are Large, but fragile animals. Large breed dogs commonly have medical problems related to their great size. Prospective owners of large boned breeds must be prepared for the possibility that there may be substantial financial outlay in the way of veterinary bills and special care.

Danes especially need to be kept indoors as family members. They will be unhappy living a solitary life as an outdoor dog as they are gregarious and need to interact with people. Another consideration is their thin skin and short fur. Danes have short hair coats, which make for great discomfort in warm climates due to insect bites and sunburn, and cold intolerance in temperate and cooler regions.

Danes should NOT eat high protein foods at ANY stage in their growth cycles, especially as puppies. Buying a Dane requires the new owners to educate themselves in dietary and growth needs of large boned breeds in order to help prevent the onset of diet related health problems. Great Danes are prone to bloat and torsion, both of which can also be related somewhat to diet and eating, and hopefully regulated somewhat by proper diet and care. (See feeding FAQs)

Great Danes are wonderfully happy and energetic dogs. This results in much tail wagging and leaping about. Both of these things can be either amusing or tragic! Great Danes are known for wagging so hard that they split their tails open and bleed everywhere. When they wag they slam their tails against any and all objects at tail height. The result ends up looking like the Texas Chain Saw Massacre.

Dane puppies can be both funny and dangerous, with their energetic antics. Imagine a pirouette being " gracefully" performed by one of these gentle giants? Cute and funny, unless there's a two year old child standing right under him! They are playful animals and do have energy that must be released by giving them regular exercise and playtime. This requires a fenced yard or a dedicated owner who will run/ walk his dog twice daily no matter what the weather.

Danes require a stable home life and all dogs need a home they can count on for all of their natural life. If you plan to buy a dog, think ahead to major events upcoming in your future. Will they accommodate a large, sweet dog? If not, wait. A dog is a lifetime(10 years at least) responsibility, think of it as a marriage, not easily given up on or walked away from.

Have you actually seen the size of a 9 month old Great Dane "puppy"? If not, then be prepared for a surprise! A 9 month Dane pup can weigh as much as 120 pounds! While Danes grow fairly quickly in size, they mature much more slowly. It sometimes takes up to 3 years for mental maturity to be complete. In the meantime you are dealing with a rather large puppy! This disparity is what I refer to when I recommend rather extensive obedience training.

Sounds easy... Run to the PET STORE and let some harried salesperson show you a bunch of cute, squirmy bundles of fur. After you let the kids pat and tug, ooh and ah you finally trip on home with the one for you. Your first days are a whirl of squeaky toys and puppy cuddles. Everyone wants to play with Rover! But the newness wears off quickly, soon there are puppy puddles and piles no one wants to clean, and a stack of chewed shoes and pillows to replace. Rover grows QUITE large and is ignored by everyone. Soon he is howling out by his doghouse day and night, making you regret buying that cute little bundle of fur. NO! It doesn't need to be that way. With a little emergency preparedness this can be a happy, fulfilling relationship.

You can find one in any book store, it gives a brief summary of each breed of dog , personality type, full grown size, how long the coat gets and required grooming, how the breed relates to people (how people oriented the breed is), activity level, and volume and quality of food required to sustain them. This book also contains the Breed Standard, a description of what the ideal animal of this breed looks like. It is important that before you dedicate yourself to a specific breed of dog, that you make yourself aware of different breeds and their characteristics. This eases the changes that always come with a new addition to your family.

Reference Books to Consider:
THE SIMON AND SCHUSTER GUIDE TO DOGS
Edited by Elizabeth Meriwether Schuler
Simon and Schuster

Disclaimer! No I DON'T own stock in Simon and Schuster, it just happens that they published books I like!
Authors Note:

The last 2 titles listed are my favorites. I reference these books frequently when asked by people what breed might best suit their family. Bruce Fogle is a behaviorist and Veterinarian who is very dedicated to the Human-Dog bond. Daniel Tortora has written many articles about breeds, but this book is his best I think.

Once you have determined that the Great Dane is the breed for you, it is time to study up on the breed standard (what the ultimate Dane is like in temperament and structure) and various books on the origins and personality of Danes. Here I have listed 3 books which make fast and interesting reading on Great Danes.

Things are not as they seem to be. A Great Dane, which is one of the largest of breeds, does well in a small home or apartment as long as daily exercise is provided. This is because of their great size. Great Danes do not move as fast as the small breeds, do not tend to be as energetic and their metabolism level is lower. These dogs require a lower level of grooming than some breeds and shed little. This enables a small home (cave) dweller to be comfortable with this size dog. They are also graceful despite their size, and with a minimum of effort, most homes can accommodate them. I am personally prejudiced toward this breed. I have 2 Danes and live in a Condo, and my other dog (a Pointer) takes up twice as much room, and has three times as much energy as do the Danes. (Ahhhh!)

On the other hand, a large home with many small children is not always the place for one of these gentle giants. They are heavy, and given the space and opportunity will run about. Little children will be knocked aside with no malice intended, but could be harmed easily. A better choice for the home with little ones would be perhaps a golden retriever pup which stays a much more manageable size, yet is very gentle.

Why should you visit a vet if you don't yet have a pet? Well, if he is a good family vet, he will know after talking with you which breed might suit your family best. (I say might here because there is NO guarantee that any dog will be true to its breed 100%. Just pick as best you can, and train the best you can to achieve optimum results.)

Your vet has a wonderful tool at his disposal that is your next best friend. It is called a Dog Breeders Directory, and is usually sponsored by local dog clubs. Any breeder with a good reputation will be listed in this book. Your vet can supply you with a list of names and phone numbers of breeders who show and breed Great Danes.

A note here, that not all Vets are as knowledgeable as they could be where Danes are concerned. Danes require special care as do other giant breeds. Be VERY cautious when looking for a vet to care for your new puppy. Ask other Dane owners to recommend a good one to you, your choice may spell life or death for your dog!

Contact your local Great Dane of America affiliate club, the names of local club members can be obtained by contacting the Great Dane Club of America. The local clubs will be happy to steer you to responsible, reputable breeders.

Subscribe to Great Dane publications. Dane World and The Great Dane Reporter are both very good sources of information about the breed. They also both have listings of breeders and photos of many colors and types of Danes.

Attend some All Breed Conformation and Great Dane Specialty shows. There are always people at these shows willing to give information about the breed and share knowledge. As well, you can observe the different colors of Danes and types of show competition available. Conformation, Obedience and Tracking are only a few of the types of competition that this breed can participate in.

Again, a veterinarian can also supply you with a list of local breeders, though they cannot always guarantee how reputable the breeders may be. Some vets may know them personally and can help you in that respect. Make a list of all the names you are given and proceed to the next step.

Read the Great Dane Breed Standard, and decide what color and sex Dane you prefer. The 5 recognized colors (GDCA) are Black, Blue, Fawn, Brindle and Harlequin. There are MANY other choices of colors which cannot be shown in a breed ring, but make GREAT pets, as color does not make the dog, personality does! A few of these colors are Merle, Fawnequin and Boston, all beautiful.

Some say that the colors are divided into different personality types, I won't put my foot into my mouth on this, except to say that harlequin is a type of clown, and the word tends to typify the behavior of many Harlequins. Then again, the same can be said of Blacks, Blues, Fawns and Brindles!

The sex you pick may or may not be important, depending on whether you intend to show and /or breed. Bitches which are not neutered experience a heat every 6-9 months. This can be a difficult time for you and her, as bitches are temperamental at this time, and the bleeding can be an inconvenience. Males left intact require a very firm hand, as when exposed to a bitch in heat they are very persistent in reaching her. They can also be more aggressive than neutered males.

After you have assured yourself that this is the breed/ breeder you are interested in dealing with, visit the breeder(s) kennel and/or establishment. Have a visit, check out the facilities and make yourself at home. Would you like to live there if you were a dog? Is it clean? Is the whelping box (where the puppies are kept) clean? Are the parents both there for inspection? Do they look well fed and happy? Do tails wag and coats shine? Are pedigrees available for inspection?

Ask questions! How and what does the breeder feed? How often does he produce litters? Why is he breeding Danes, what are his goals? Does the breeder belong to the Great Dane Club of America or one of the affiliated local clubs? Does the breeder follow up on puppies he sells, keeping the rights to recover dogs he has sold should they become available? Does he interview prospects such as you? He should be very carefully screening potential puppy purchasers. If he is not, then find another breeder, as a good breeder will not allow just any home to have a puppy.

When you purchase a puppy from a breeder, you are also in essence purchasing the knowledge and experience of that person. Be sure that the breeder you deal with is able to supply these.

Who is the vet that this breeder uses? Sometimes a talk with this doctor is helpful, too. Your new breeder friend will give you info on purchasing, feeding, caring for and training their breed. Have the parent dogs been screened for health problems? Here is a list which you should use to gauge how much health screening is done by the breeder and what significance the tests can have for a Dane.

If they are caring and responsible breeders, they will gladly give you a few names and phone numbers of their happy customers. Call the people referenced to you and invite yourself over. Meet the puppy and family, see the environment and ask all your questions. Trust me, new puppy owners are like proud new parents- if they are happy with their new kid they'll tell you all about it.

OFA: The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals is a group of radiologists which reviews x-ray films of dogs hips taken to test for Hip Dysplasia. Hip Dysplasia is a crippling condition which can cause much pain and lameness for the life of your dog. These films are used to certify the dogs' hip joints as Normal (Dysplasia Free), rating them either, Excellent , Good or Fair, these films are also used to rate the degree of dysplasia should it exist.

Penn-Hip:Penn-Hip is a similar test done for Hip Dysplasia. One main difference between OFA and Penn-Hip is the age at which certification is done. Another difference between OFA and Penn-Hip Testing is that a computer, rather than the human eye evaluates Penn-Hip x-rays. OFA testing may be done at any age, but Certification must be done at or after 2 years of age. Penn Hip Certification can be done as early as 6 months.

Von Willebrands Disease: VWD is a bleeding problem in Danes, that is much like Hemophilia in humans. Testing is done by drawing blood samples.

CERF:CERF is short for Canine Eye Registration Foundation. They can certify a dog to be free of congenital eye diseases after a veterinarian examines the eyes. This test is only good for one year, so must be done annually.

Cardiac Testing: A canine cardiologist tests the dog for any cardiac abnormalities, especially Cardiomyopathy, a disease which strikes Great Danes and other large and giant breeds.

(A note about Cardiomyopathy tests, not all breeders test for it, this is NOT a negative reflection on the breeder)

I hope all of this does not discourage you. A Dane should not be purchased as a whim, because a they can live to 12-13 years of age. God knows, I don't want to live with ANYONE for that long unless I'm absolutely sure it s LOVE.

Would you Consider a Rescue Dane? I am in favor of rescuing Danes from local shelters and breed rescue groups. Although great care must be taken in the selection of an animal from a rescue situation due to possible previous abuse and neglect, these animals can be wonderful companions. The people who run these operations are usually knowledgeable, good-hearted and pro-animal. They will screen prospective pet adopters, and train you about the needs of a dog and of the specific breed. Best of all, they also REQUIRE spaying and neutering as part of the adoption procedure.

The subject of Neutering and spaying is a whole other chapter, but suffice it to say that unless you plan to become a professional show person and breeder, NEUTER YOUR DOG!

Notice here that I have said nothing yet about PET STORES and PUPPY MILLS. In general, I have strong feelings against buying ANY pet (dogs or cats) from a store. Nothing can guarantee that the pet you purchase from a store is not the product of a puppy mill or disreputable breeder. Puppy mills are breeding farms where the breeding stock is kept many times, in crowded, unsanitary and unsafe conditions.

Many of the good pet stores try to check on the background of the breeders they buy from, but many more do not or cannot. Animals purchased from stores might have genetic problems that the neophyte pet owner knows nothing of and is financially unable to handle. The best way to prevent cruelty to animals is to prevent the puppy mill from making money by not buying their puppies from stores.

Pet stores are a great place to purchase animal care supplies, food and small animals such as gerbils and goldfish. But puppies should be purchased from someone with intimate knowledge of the breed. Enough said on this subject except for this, if you buy from a pet store, get a written money-back guarantee, and get the pup checked immediately by a vet. But in short please, DON T DO IT!

Yay! We finally get to have fun. Once you've decided on the breed and breeder, ask when the next litter is due. You can sometimes be first on the scene so to speak.

Early socialization is good for puppies, and most breeders will invite prospective buyers for supervised play visits once the pups are old enough. Contrary to common belief, after birth the puppies are strong enough to fight off most disease, and with precautions can be handled by some strangers in a controlled environment. It is important that handling of the puppies is done between the ages of 1-3 weeks, as this period is when much of submissive traning is done. By 6 weeks the first set of shots are given, and the public may then be allowed to handle the pups more freely. You can watch the pups develop and get a sense of which one might be yours . At the time that you are visiting, observe how the breeder handles the puppies, and how the mother dog disciplines them. These observations are useful later on, to help with training. You will learn at this time about dog packs, eye contact and a whole slew of dog psychology things that you will in time need to know very well.

Reputable breeders have designed newsletters and informative handouts for prospective puppy purchasers. These breeders go the extra mile to assure that their charges are placed properly. Many will go as far as to guarantee to take back any unwanted puppy for any reason at any time, and may even require right of first refusal. This means should the buyer of a puppy decide to sell that puppy, the breeder must be given first option to purchase. This guarantees that the rescue dog population is kept to a minimum, and that the breeder has control over his puppies destinies.

Breeders should provide a complete guide for feeding and caring for a new puppy, as well as health records, a copy of the pedigree and copies of both parents health certifications.

All puppy purchases should be completed with a written contract. This contract should spell out clearly the terms of sale, whether or not AKC registration papers are being supplied and on what terms (limited registration, etc). There should also be a written guarantee regarding health, hips and eyes, and a spay or neuter requirement for all companion pet sales. All puppies should have their first set of vaccinations and parasite testing before the sale and this should be spelled out in the contract.

There are available, if you so desire, people who will perform Puppy Temperament Tests . These are a series of tests designed to check the adaptability, temperament and personality of a puppy. They should be performed 49 days of age, and should be given at intervals of 1-2 weeks until the puppies are ready to leave mom. The tests are performed up to 4 months of age to better determine what the dog is capable of. The practical reason for administering these tests are obvious. Do you want to do obedience work with your puppy? If so, you want a willing puppy who wishes to please you and be with you. Do you have small children, who are likely to pull an occasional tail or ear? Yes? Then you need to know that the pup you are bringing home is forgiving in nature, and flexible in body. Your breeder or a local obedience school will be able to steer you towards a good test administrator.

Because of their potential great size, I recommend that Great Danes be started in obedience training as soon as you bring them home. This involves at- home teaching of the rudiments of house training, coming when called and simple commands like sit and down. Once the puppy has his first shots, he should be enrolled in Puppy Kindergarten and from there continue obedience training through adulthood.

Owning a Great Dane is a very large responsibility, one not to be taken lightly. But, it is more rewarding yet than any other experience I've had. These gentle giants will give you their hearts and souls, for only a little love and care. They are worth every minute you can spend with them!

Tattooing is a permanent, painless procedure which allows dogs to "phone home" if lost and deters theft. It usually involves tattooing the inside of the rear leg with an ID number of some sort. Licensed laboratories are required by law to return any tattooed animals which come to them, so people who steal dogs for sale to experimental labs check for tattoos, and release dogs they have stolen allowing them to be recovered. The act of tattooing also puts the dogs under the "branded animal act" so that those caught are charged with a federal felony rather than a local misdemeanor.

There are many local registries, but the two main ones are ID Pet and National Dog Registry (NDR) both of which have been in business since the mid 1960's. ID Pet has a coded number. All tattoos begin with an X, then the agent's coded letters and then the next numerical number. NDR is based on the social security number of the owner though they now have other numbers by special arrangement. ID Pet charges $15 for an individual registration and $30 for a Permanent Lifetime Rate (PLR), NDR charges $38 for the registration of the social security number and all dogs get the same number. Tattoo agents charge varying amounts for the tattoo application. Call 800-243-9147 for ID Pet or 800-NDR-DOGS for the authorized agent nearest you.

Consider tattooing to be an insurance policy. You hope you never need it, but it is priceless when your dog is missing.

Micro-chips are injected sub-dermally (under the skin) at the nape of the dogs neck. About the size of a grain of rice, these chips each transmit an unique number that when scanned by a vet, identifies the dog and the owner. Most Veterinary clinics and Animal shelters possess a scanner. Efforts are being made to universalize the scanners, so that one scanner can read a chip from any system. Please use one or both of these forms of ID to help protect your pet from loss, or use by a Laboratory.